Fables, But Not La Fontain’s

Tourists to Hue might all visit the Imperial City but I doubt they stop at Dien Voi Re. This lesser-known temple is in Nguyet Bieu area, not far from Ho Quyen, a royal arena where elephants and tigers fought, and dedicated to the 15 saints said to spiritually protect the fighting elephants in Nguyen Dynasty.  The temple is very old and has been left unattended for a long time. I admit there is not much left to see though in the past, it was really a sacred place. The fact that its architecture obeys the Feng-shui principles tells it all; with a lotus pond in front and mountains and hills from afar. Though the official name of this temple is Long Chau, it is better known to the locals under the name Voi Re (voi: elephant, re: shrieking). Why that name is an interesting story. In King Ming Mang’s time, an elephant was in battle when it was badly wounded. Despite its fatal wound, it tried to run back to the temple, went down on its knee in front of the gate, gave its last shriek and died. Impressed with its loyalty, the court decided to bury it in the temple. Be sure to click on each photo to see a larger version.

Further up Doc Ben Ngu is located Phan Boi Chau’s Memorial House. Phan Boi Chau was a patriot against the French. It is a very modest house where he was placed under house arrest. His tomb is now in the garden. Besides the impressive bronze statue of him, erected by scholars and students of Hue College of Fine Arts (Ah, the statue was originally intended to be erected in the park in front of College of Pedagogy), the other things that caught my attention were two steles on which carved Mr. Phan’s mourning for his two faithful dogs, Ky and Va**. Frankly, his words, with lots of hints, were too good to be translated here. (Sorry for that.) But above all, I know his love for the pets was real. The two dogs were more than just pets, but his faithful friends.

And I recall the pet cemetery in San Diego (2000). I once stopped there for a look inside out of curiosity. It was a small cemetery but very neat and well tended. There was even a small chapel. It is said that people had to pay lots of money in order to have their pets buried there. People tend to be critical about pet cemeteries; that wealthy people waste too much money that silly way. But it is not always so if you have a chance to read touching words on wreaths and cards neatly laid on the graves. Yes, it was Christmas time when I came...

** Bia con Vá:
“Vì có dũng nên liều chết phấn đấu, vì có nghĩa nên trung thành với chủ. Nói thì dễ làm thiệt khó, người còn vậy huống gì chó. Ôi con Vá này đủ hai đức đó, há như ai kia, mặt người lòng thú, nghĩ thế mà đau, dựng bia mộ chó”.

Bia con Ky:
“Người hơi có đức nhân thường kém về phần trí. Người hơi có đức trí thường kém về phần nhân. Vừa trí vừa nhân thật là hiếm thấy! Ai ngờ con Ky này lại đủ hai đức ấy.
Chung nhau thờ một chủ, thời xem là anh em, chẳng bao giờ như mèo với chó, thật là nhân đó. Thấy không phải chủ thời xem bằng cừu thù, chẳng bao giờ vì miếng ngon dẫn dụ, thiệt là trí đó.
Trí vừa nhân, nhân vừa trí, trong giống súc mà người, e đến mày mới thấy. mày sao vội chết! Hỡi trời! Hỡi trời! Lòng ta đau đớn, phải tạc mấy lời. Đau đớn quá! Đau  đớn quá! Kìa những hạng muông người”. (sic)

Comments

[Tom Murray]

Your photos are excellent. I hope to see this area one day soon.

[Sam]

I was in Hue during the Tet season, but unfortunetely, nothing was left!! Now, to think back the days we were in Hue, we should haven't stay in dorms all day long !Though, the memory is kept not by pen but by mind !