Banh Hue

Printed in To Vietnam with Love: A Travel Guide for Connoisseur by Thingsasian Press, 2008

    Formerly the imperial capital of Vietnam, modern-day Hue is characterized by a unique mix of the royal life and common lifestyles. That combination can be found in various aspects of day-to-day life, and the cuisine is no exception. Because of the city’s noble heritage, dishes are diverse and well known for their distinctive flavors. Among the foods that visitors should try is banh Hue. The umbrella term for a type of small, often bite-sized dishes, banh Hue comes in many different varieties, all made from the same, simple ingredients: regular rice, sticky rice, or cassava flour, plus shrimp and/or pork. The secret then lies in the way those ingredients are put together.

 

    Even more interesting is that within each kind of banh Hue usually two versions exist. One is served at formal meals and the other on more casual occasions. Often, the differences are so subtle that even some Hue locals do not notice. For example, banh nam and banh la are seemingly similar: sticky packets of steamed rice flour filled with ground shrimp and pork. But while banh nam is wrapped in banana leaves, the ultra-thin banh la is wrapped in la dong, another type of leaf which adds a special fragrance that the banana lacks. And banh la is always accompanied by cha tom patties, made from shrimp.

    The same duality holds true for banh bot loc, whose shrimp and boiled pork inside a nearly translucent tube of cassava flour. The ones wrapped in banana leaves look neat and are used for formal meals, while the more modest ones without leaves are sold by street venders as snacks. As well, banh beo, which is a disc of steamed rice paper batter topped with a mixture of minced shrimp and green onions, has two types: banh beo dia is displayed on plates, while the stickier banh beo chen is served in tiny bowls.

    I like banh beo chen because it is fun to eat. Children often compete with each other, counting the number of bowls they leave after the meal. Originally, to eat banh beo, diners used knives made of bamboo. Today, to suit the formal atmosphere in restaurants, chopsticks are provided instead. But if you buy banh beo from street venders, chances are that you may still be given a bamboo knife and can eat the snack in the traditional way.

    The next set of differences when it comes to banh Hue concerns the sauces. As you already know, nuoc man (fish sauce) is the staple ingredient for Vietnamese sauces. Fish sauce by itself is unique _ many visitors find its distinctive smell unbearable _ but how Vietnamese cooks use it to make so many different kinds of sauces is impressive. The key is in the amount of supplementary ingredients added. A squeeze of lime juice, some slices of green and/or red chili, a little bit of fresh garlic, a dash of sugar, and varying amounts of water, for example, can all bring about very different results. And the most interesting part for me? Making sauces must be learned by experience, not from recipes.

 

    Each type of banh Hue should be served with a different kind of fish sauce. Banh bot loc, banh nam and banh la go well with pure, salty fish sauce, plus some slices of green and red chili and nothing else. Banh uot, which is a sheet of steamed rice flour containing shrimp (tom) or grilled meat (thit nuong) and fresh herbs, must be dipped into a mixture of fish sauce, shredded chili, garlic, and lots of lime juice. Both banh beo and banh it, a pork-filled, sticky rice flour dumpling, taste best with fish sauce and other spices such as sugar, chili, some drops of lime juice, and especially shrimp paste.

    Another important distinction of Hue cuisine is that it must be pleasing to the eye. Hue cooks believe that the appearance of the dish is by no means less important than its taste. Each dish is a combination of specific colors and shapes. Traditionally, banh la is cut up into rectangular shapes and placed neatly on a plate surrounding cubes of cha tom, though some cooks roll the cha tom inside the banh la. Banh khoai provides a good example of artisanship too. This is perhaps Hue’s most famous banh Hue specialty, an omelet-style dish consisting of a rice flour “crepe” filled with pork, shrimp, and bean sprouts. When presented properly, it is its own work of art.

    Because of Hue’s imperial legacy, a history of emperors who ate dozens of different dishes at a single meal, don’t expect an abundance of food when you order. You will receive just a little of each dish at a time. While this may seem unsatisfying to Western appetites at first, what it means is that you will always have room to try just one more of the many types of banh Hue offered around the city.

 

Comments

[huy]

Troi, dang them banh thi thay may buc anh cua thay. Haha. Thanks for this eye-party. Dao ni thay co ban khong thay? O khoa co gi moi khong?

[Duong Lam Anh (to huy)]

huy,
As busy and stressed as always. You're enjoying your time there, huh? Cherry blossom is great. Thanks for the updates...

[Viet Anh]

Còn 4 tuần nữa em mới đi Huế, vậy mà Thầy đã cố tình trêu ngươi em rồi, hihihi. Nhìn thấy bánh của Thầy em thấy chảy nước miếng rồi đây. Dù sao cũng phải cảm ơn Thầy đã tạo cảm giác thèm ăn bánh Huế cho những ai đang sống xa Huế.